DIY Cleanser: ‘Easy Rinse’ Oil Cleansing Method and Tanaka Massage

I’ve been meaning to put up this recipe for a while, but I’ve been trying to get the balance of ingredients just right before I share it with you all.

Traditionally, the ‘Oil Cleansing Method’ requires just oil and Castor Oil to make a cleanser. The general rule is that you use 10% Castor Oil for dry skin, 20% for normal/ combination, and 30% for oily skin. Once you apply the cleanser to your face, you apply a hot cloth and steam your face, thus cleaning out all the pores. For more information on that method, read this.

However, the only thing I don’t like about this traditional method is that you need to follow up with another cleanser to get all the oil off, thus defeating the purpose of the Oil Cleansing Method in the first place.

For that reason, I favour the ‘Easy Rinse’ Oil Cleansing Method, as it takes off everything I’ve slapped on my face that day (including Waterproof Covergirl Lashblast Mascara) in one go, and leaves my skin amazingly soft, clean, and nourished.  I’ve never needed to double cleanse with this method. I just apply, massage, rinse and go. I take it off with a muslin or microfibre cloth if I feel like I need some extra exfoliation.

There are many cleansers on the market that reflect the same method, such as the Eve Lom and Shu Uemura cleansers, but they are usually very expensive and contain mineral oil. I have nothing particular against mineral oil, but if I have the choice I would prefer to use a luxurious oil like , for example, Sunflower Oil, Red Rasberry Oil, or Hazelnut Oil. It’s pretty cheeky of these companies to charge the prices they do for such cleansers when it’s probably one of the cheapest things to make in skincare, especially when the main component is mineral oil.

This is also one of the simplest recipes to put together, and only requires:

20% Polysorbate 80 (the ‘easy rinse’ aspect, and the same ingredient they use in the Eve Lom and Shu Uemura cleansers. I buy mine from Skin Essential Actives)

10% Castor Oil (Available from your local supermarket, pharmacy, or Garden of Wisdom)

70% Oil (I buy my oils from Garden of Wisdom)

So if you are making 100 grams of cleanser, this means:

20g Polysorbate 80

10g Castor Oil

70 g Oil

You can use whatever oils you like. My current favourite is a blend of Hazelnut, Red Rasberry, and Macadamia Nut Oil. I intend to try Sunflower Oil on its own next.

All you do is measure it out, pour it into a sterilised bottle, and you’re done!

I really love how effectively this cleanser cleans my skin, and I love that it is suitable for all skin types by adjusting the castor oil. If you have dry skin use the recipe above, but if you have combination skin, your recipe would be:

20% Polysorbate 80

20% Castor Oil

60% Oil

And if you have oily skin is would be:

20% Polysorbate 80

30% Castor Oil

50% Oil

Be aware that too much Castor Oil in the formulation can dry out your skin, so err on the side of caution and add more Castor Oil later if you need it.

A word to the oily-skinned and acne-prone:

I know if sounds counter-intuitive to wash your face with oil, but this will work well for you too. I will warn you though, that like Retin A on acne-prone skin, some have experienced a ‘purging’ period where this cleansing process drags up all the gunk from deep down. If you can push through that process, however, you will be left with the best skin of your life.

Tanaka Massage:

In combination with this, I’ve been cleansing in the morning with Tanaka Massage, and I’m completely addicted. Not only has it lessened the laugh lines around my mouth,  firmed my jawline, and de-puffed my eyes, but it feels so relaxing and luxurious when used in conjunction with the ‘Easy Rinse’ Oil Cleansing Method. It also cleanses my skin really, really thoroughly, so I’ve seen a decrease in blackheads too.

You can watch Part One, Part Two, Part Three, and Part Four of the Tanaka Massage regime and philosophy on Youtube. It takes about three minutes, but is completely worth it.


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57 Responses to DIY Cleanser: ‘Easy Rinse’ Oil Cleansing Method and Tanaka Massage

  1. ki. says:

    That massage looks really effective and relaxing! I don’t have lines or puffiness yet so I’m wondering if it will do me any good in that area, but I would like to try it anyway :)

  2. Dempeaux says:

    @ki It’s gorgeous! I’d recommend it to you because it cleanses the skin so thoroughly! Let me know how you go :)

  3. Fantastic post! I have finally gotten to ordering emulsifier for my blend (I had to ask a friend in France to get it for me as the leading online seller for those ingredients wouldn’t ship to my country), and I can’t wait to prepare my first bottle :-)

  4. Dempeaux says:

    @MusingOnBeauty That’s great! Strange that you had problems getting the Polysorbate 80 – did you try SkinEssentialActives? How exciting! Let me know how you get on! :D

  5. Meeta says:

    Fab post as always! I am definitely going to check out the massage as I would like to learn a good technique and reduce my blackheads. At the moment I have taken the easy route and am using my favourite Origins cleansing oil but hoping to give the DIY one ago once I’ve used it up.

  6. Dempeaux says:

    @Meeta Thankyou! Let me know how you go with it, I’d love to know your feedback! :)

  7. NeenaJ says:

    The timing of your posts is really impeccable IMO! I was just researching SUQQU’s Gankin Massage (of which Lisa Eldridge is such a fan) to incorporate it into my OCM. This looks like it’s pretty much the same thing, repackaged. The Tanaka method uses fingertips where Gankin uses more of the first knuckles. All of the steps are the same, although a few are out of order.

    It’s really helpful to see the model do it on herself. Thanks for posting!

  8. KAM says:

    Thanks for the revised method. I agree with you, I hated the extra step of adding additional oil. I will be trying this tonight.

  9. Dempeaux says:

    @NeenaJ That’s really interesting Nena! I shall have to check out the Gankin Massage and compare, although I must say that I like the sound of fingertips rather than knuckles ;) Good luck, and let me know how you get on! :)

  10. Dempeaux says:

    @KAM Lovely! I hope it goes well! :)

  11. Vidya says:

    Hi .. great timing on this post :) One clarification – when you say 60% oils .. what are the kind of oils you are referring to ? Like only carrier oils – say sweet almond oil , apricot kernel oil … or even essential oils can be used ?

    What is the payment method in Skinessentialactives ? I could see only paypal .. do they not allow Credit cards ?

  12. Dempeaux says:

    @Vidya Yes, you are right, I mean facial/carrier oils like sweet almond, apricot kernel oil etc. You can add a few drops of essential oils for the scent, but don’t use too much as they can irritate the skin.

    I’ve only ever paid using PayPal at SEA, but if you email Natasha at I’m sure you could negotiate a credit card payment. Perhaps that facility is availble anyway, and I’ve just never noticed it?? :)

  13. cyo says:

    do you use liquid or powder polysorbate in your cleanser?

  14. I definitely need to try this out one day, if only to see all the gross crap that comes out of my skin :P *bookmarks for later*

  15. Dempeaux says:

    @SilhouetteScreams Ooooo let me know if you do ;)

  16. Gillian says:

    I wanted to love the OCM so badly, but it just didn’t work out for me. Such a shame as it is the only thing that has ever left my skin feeling completely moisturised, but the breakouts along my jaw and cheeks were unwelcome and didn’t seem to be going away anytime soon :(

  17. Dempeaux says:

    @Gillian You’re probably one of the people who experience ‘ purging’ from this method then :( I know many who have not experienced any purging, but I do know one person who went through the purging for weeks. If you can push through that period, you will end up with really beautiful skin. I can understand your reluctance to try it again though – purging isn’t fun!

  18. Jen W says:

    I need to try this ASAP. Still psyching myself up for it, after all this time haha.

    Amazing post. <3 <3

  19. Dempeaux says:

    @JenW Thanks Jen! Definitely give it a go! I love it :)

  20. Moxie says:

    You’re post is so incredibly impressive and full of great information. I’m a wee bit nervous to try this on my own. You’re so knowledgeable and I’m so–not! LOL! However, I love the idea of making my own and you give excellent directions, ideas, etc. Thank you. I don’t always leave comments, but I always love your posts! x

  21. Dempeaux says:

    @Moxie Thanks so much. I can relate to what you are saying, as I sometimes don’t have the time to comment on my favourite blogs either. If you’re interested in DIY this is a great place to start: it’s gentle, effective, and very easy to make. Thanks again! I appreciate that you take the time to read my blog :)

  22. Renuca says:

    Hi, I discovered your blog through Ki and must say I’m enjoying readingit immensely. I’m a total skincare junkie and I am very tempted to try out your DIY recipes. And yes tho I’m not much of a ‘dress’ person, I feel like buying a few you’ve posted too :D . I’ll be following you religiously, you are amazing!

  23. Lillie says:

    Thanks for the great information. I have been using Bobbi Brown’s cleansing oil about a year. It is the only thing that removes my makeup but doesn’t dry me out. I’m very interested in stepping my routine up as you’ve suggested because ironically I suffer from dry skin and acne. Since I have a good bit of BB oil already and castor oil is so easy to come by, I may just start mixing those together. Unless you think that’s a bad idea…

  24. Dempeaux says:

    @Renuca Thankyou so much! You comments are lovely :)

  25. Dempeaux says:

    @Lillie I’d probably suggest using up your BB oil, then buying the ingredients for the recipe. It’ll feel so much nicer on your skin. Good luck though, and I hope you love it!

  26. I’ve recently started oil cleanisng & am purging big style but am perserving as am loving the principle it is detoxing my skin, but am still double cleansing as am still afraid of congesting pores, loved those Tanaka massage vids, am ashamed to say I am trained in facial massage bur don’t actively use a routine on my face, principles inherently pro ably but not a full massage. I have my work iPad hom this weekend. So going to do some tanaka training in my bathroom, looks fab!!

  27. Dempeaux says:

    @MeMyBestAndI Oh good on you! Keep going! Purging is not much fun, but if you can push through it’ll be worth it :) If you are using my recipe you will not need to double-cleanse. Trust me! If you really want a ‘cleaner’ feel to your skin just add more Polysorbate 80. I didn’t know you trained in facial massage! Let me know your opinion of the Tanaka. I love it, but I’m not a pro! :)

  28. Ali says:

    Thanks so much for this recipe and info! I’ve made my own cleansing oil before just with jojoba and castor oil, but didn’t like that it didn’t rinse clean. I’ve just ordered the Polysorbate 80, looking forward to it arriving and making my own mix.. Thanks again :-)

  29. Dempeaux says:

    @Ali No problem! I hope you’re as pleased with it as I am :)

  30. I really agree with these massage methods for the face – I’m off to watch Parts 1-4 to make sure I’m doing it right!

  31. Dempeaux says:

    @StyleOnTheCouch It actually makes a subtle but noticeable difference. All those little pockets of fat on the face get massaged away to create a more youthful, scultpted look. Love it! :)

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  34. rose says:

    Hi dempeaux! i really appreciate you taking the time to show how to DIY… taking pictures and explaining step by step!!!! I’m so grateful because i’m trying to slowly transition into DIY at least on some things like serums etc… I’m so glad i found this site because you make it seem so easy and your explanations are very detailed. Thanks again and your skin transformation looks amazing!!!!

  35. Dempeaux says:

    @Rose I’m glad it’s helpful! DIY has helped my skin so much and has saved me lots of money too. Good luck! xxx

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  37. Nia says:

    Thank you for all the great information! I’ve been looking for a rinse off oil cleanser but also wasn’t willing to pay a lot of money for mostly mineral oil. I have been using my homemade cleanser for about a week now and I love it. I’m using 60% Jojoba, 20% Castor and 20% Polysorbate 80 with a couple of drops of Lavender oil added to the mix. I’ve also only been using Jojoba oil on my face in place of my usual face/eye creams which my skin just loves – no new spots or blocked pores this week!

  38. Dempeaux says:

    @Nia I’m so happy to hear this! Yes, it’s crazy what companies charge for mineral oil. The Lavender Oil sounds a lovely addition to your mix, and would be so beautiful at bed time :) I’m so glad you have a new routine that works! :)

  39. Anita says:

    Can I ask a stupid question – where can I get Retin A?? Assuming I cant use it while breastfeeding? Also, when you say 60%, 20% etc – how much is that exactly?? – 3 drops, 1tbsp etc. Sorry, I’m new to this and really want to give it a ago. My skin is HORRENDOUS and at a loss as to what I can do :(

  40. Anita says:

    Dont worry – lack of sleep, saw your ‘gram’ measurements *embarrasing*

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  42. Renee says:

    Hi. I was just wondering how you apply the oil to your face? Do you use cotton pads or just apply it with your fingers?


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  44. Dempeaux says:

    @Renee I just pour it into my hands and apply it to my face :)

  45. Dempeaux says:

    @Anita You can get Retin A from here and yes, don’t use it while breastfeeding! I would definitely invest in a scale if you are looking to DIY. Don’t guess measurements when it comes to your skin :) DIY will help your skin though!

  46. Davidsbfly says:

    Hi! I was wondering what the polysorbate 20 does int the mix? Does it help incorperate the oils, or jusy make it rinse off better? I do the OCM now but have never used poly 20, though I do have it on order!

  47. Dempeaux says:

    @David Binds everything together, so it means that water and oil will blend in order for it all to rinse off.

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