10% MAP Serum + AHYP (Updated Formula)

Vitamin C is a staple of any good skincare regime.

My preference at the moment is MAP, or Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, because it doesn’t have the irritation of L-Ascorbic Acid and delivers great results. I love the way it sinks in to my skin.

However, it can be a touchy active to work with. I have discovered two things about creating a MAP serum:

1. Simple is best – don’t try and put lots of other actives in to the serum along with it.

2. In order for the serum not to split (which is not really a problem other than the fact that it’s not very elegant to look at) you need to ensure that the total percentage of the water phase is very close to the total percentage of the oil phase.

The MAP recipe I started out with is still a great formula, but when you DIY your own actives, you have the freedom to experiement and tweak things according to your changing preferences.

These days, I have a preference for adding AHYP, or N-Acetyl-L-Hydroxyproline. It plays nicely with temperamental MAP and makes the skin instantly soft. It stimulates collagen in the skin too, so there are long-term benefits to this very pleasant active. You can read more about it and studies on its effectiveness here.

The recipe I tend to use these days goes like this:

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 10%
Distilled H20 30%
Borage Oil (or whatever oils you prefer) 42%
Vitamin E 1%
Emulsifying wax 4%
AHYP 1%
Preservative 1%

Therefore, I have accounted for MAP, H2O, AHYP, and Vitamin E in the water phase (42%) and my oil of choice in the oil phase (42%). This formula will give you enough water to dissolve the MAP and AHYP, and will combine with the oil to give you a serum that won’t separate.

The new recipe reads like this:

New formula!

10% MAP Serum + AHYP

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 10%
Distilled H20 30%
Borage Oil (or whatever oils you prefer) 42%
Vitamin E 1%
Emulsifying wax 4%
AHYP 1%
Preservative 1%

Instructions:

1. Dissolve the MAP in your distilled water. Set it off to the side and stir occasionally

2. Measure out your oil in to a glass or stainless steel beaker which can be put in warm water (I just use an old glass jar).

3. Once your MAP is dissolved, add your Vitamin E and stir. Once it is dissolved, add your AHYP and stir. Make sure everything is dissolved.

4. Put some warm water in to a bowl (I also keep the kettle on standby in case I need to increase the temperature at some point) and stand your oil in it, swirling occassionally.

5. Heat up your emulsifying wax. You can use a double boiler, but I just pour the wax in to a spoon and heat it over two tea candles.

6. Once the wax is melted and the oil is warm, pour the wax in to the oil and stir. If the wax begins to ball up, raise the temperature of your water by pouring in a little hot water and continuing to stir.

7. Pour in your water phase (MAP, H2O, AHYP, and Vitamin E) and keep stiring until all is combined.

8. Add preservative and any essential oils you desire. Continue to stir until it cools down and pour in to airless pump containers (I use these).

Enjoy your new serum! It is GORGEOUS on the skin and easy to put together.

I still buy all my ingredients from Skin Essential Actives. They are the best around.

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2 Responses to 10% MAP Serum + AHYP (Updated Formula)

  1. Pingback: Skin Care Update | Dempeaux

  2. Pingback: Sunday Morning Formulating: Green Tea Gel Hydrator | Dempeaux

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