DIY Cleanser: ‘Easy Rinse’ Oil Cleansing Method and Tanaka Massage

I’ve been meaning to put up this recipe for a while, but I’ve been trying to get the balance of ingredients just right before I share it with you all.

Traditionally, the ‘Oil Cleansing Method’ requires just oil and Castor Oil to make a cleanser. The general rule is that you use 10% Castor Oil for dry skin, 20% for normal/ combination, and 30% for oily skin. Once you apply the cleanser to your face, you apply a hot cloth and steam your face, thus cleaning out all the pores. For more information on that method, read this.

However, the only thing I don’t like about this traditional method is that you need to follow up with another cleanser to get all the oil off, thus defeating the purpose of the Oil Cleansing Method in the first place.

For that reason, I favour the ‘Easy Rinse’ Oil Cleansing Method, as it takes off everything I’ve slapped on my face that day (including Waterproof Covergirl Lashblast Mascara) in one go, and leaves my skin amazingly soft, clean, and nourished.  I’ve never needed to double cleanse with this method. I just apply, massage, rinse and go. I take it off with a muslin or microfibre cloth if I feel like I need some extra exfoliation.

There are many cleansers on the market that reflect the same method, such as the Eve Lom and Shu Uemura cleansers, but they are usually very expensive and contain mineral oil. I have nothing particular against mineral oil, but if I have the choice I would prefer to use a luxurious oil like , for example, Sunflower Oil, Red Rasberry Oil, or Hazelnut Oil. It’s pretty cheeky of these companies to charge the prices they do for such cleansers when it’s probably one of the cheapest things to make in skincare, especially when the main component is mineral oil.

This is also one of the simplest recipes to put together, and only requires:

20% Polysorbate 80 (the ‘easy rinse’ aspect, and the same ingredient they use in the Eve Lom and Shu Uemura cleansers. I buy mine from Skin Essential Actives)

10% Castor Oil (Available from your local supermarket, pharmacy, or Garden of Wisdom)

70% Oil (I buy my oils from Garden of Wisdom)

So if you are making 100 grams of cleanser, this means:

20g Polysorbate 80

10g Castor Oil

70 g Oil

You can use whatever oils you like. My current favourite is a blend of Hazelnut, Red Rasberry, and Macadamia Nut Oil. I intend to try Sunflower Oil on its own next.

All you do is measure it out, pour it into a sterilised bottle, and you’re done!

I really love how effectively this cleanser cleans my skin, and I love that it is suitable for all skin types by adjusting the castor oil. If you have dry skin use the recipe above, but if you have combination skin, your recipe would be:

20% Polysorbate 80

20% Castor Oil

60% Oil

And if you have oily skin is would be:

20% Polysorbate 80

30% Castor Oil

50% Oil

Be aware that too much Castor Oil in the formulation can dry out your skin, so err on the side of caution and add more Castor Oil later if you need it.

A word to the oily-skinned and acne-prone:

I know if sounds counter-intuitive to wash your face with oil, but this will work well for you too. I will warn you though, that like Retin A on acne-prone skin, some have experienced a ‘purging’ period where this cleansing process drags up all the gunk from deep down. If you can push through that process, however, you will be left with the best skin of your life.

Tanaka Massage:

In combination with this, I’ve been cleansing in the morning with Tanaka Massage, and I’m completely addicted. Not only has it lessened the laugh lines around my mouth,  firmed my jawline, and de-puffed my eyes, but it feels so relaxing and luxurious when used in conjunction with the ‘Easy Rinse’ Oil Cleansing Method. It also cleanses my skin really, really thoroughly, so I’ve seen a decrease in blackheads too.

You can watch Part One, Part Two, Part Three, and Part Four of the Tanaka Massage regime and philosophy on Youtube. It takes about three minutes, but is completely worth it.


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58 Responses to DIY Cleanser: ‘Easy Rinse’ Oil Cleansing Method and Tanaka Massage

  1. Pingback: The Fountain of Youth in a Cheap Plastic Bottle: KNN serum | Dempeaux

  2. dramaquin says:

    I do have sunflower oil, grape seed oil, macadamia nut oil, olive oil, avocado oil and jojoba oil. Can I use any of these? I do have dry skin but hate the greasy stuffs.


  3. Dempeaux says:

    @Dramaquin Since I wrote this post, I think my views on oils in this cleanser have changed a bit. Firstly, I wouldn’t use sunflower oil in anything (gross), grapeseed oil is too astringent, and macadamia etc are better saved for preparations that will stay on your skin (serums etc). I use olive oil. The heaviness doesn’t really bother me because the whole principle of this cleanser is that it washes off. Olive oil is always in my kitchen, too 🙂 As long as you have castor oil and poly 80, you are good to go 🙂 Perhaps start with the dry skin formula first?

  4. dramaquin says:

    Thanks Dempeaux. I will try olive oil and see how it goes.

  5. Cyrene says:

    Hi Dempeauex,

    Thanks for your advise about oils! I was using cold pressed olive oil before, but I thought grape seed oil are better because it’s summer and feel lighter! However, it cost more to order grape seed oil online than buy better quality olive oil from shops.

    Hope you can give me some advice on Polysorbate 20/80… I bought polysobate 20 for my blend as a trial last time and I found out it will stay in the bottom of the bottle and it remain oil on the face. I think I also got allergic reaction on my face too. First of all I think I should have bought polysorbate 80 instead of 20… but I couldn’t figure out why it stays in the bottom. Is this normal?

    Thanks & regards

  6. Firbolg says:

    Wow, brilliant! 🙂 Thank you so much for sharing this. I am making a batch tomorrow…can’t wait to try it. Cheers

  7. Pingback: Skin care update | Dempeaux

  8. Michelle says:

    Hi, just curious why you think sunflower oil is “gross”? I use it in many of my skincare recipes and it’s quite popular with many other people in the business. I don’t buy it at the grocery store, but from reputable bath and body ingredient stores like WSP and Brambleberry. I’m confused and curious. 🙂 Thanks!

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