I love winged liner, but it doesn’t always love me.
Being able to execute a winged liner is the final frontier of makeup proficiency, and it makes a huge difference if you have the right tools. Experts like Jen make it look easy.
Suzanne from Don’t They Know Who I Am? was kind enough to send me two Models Prefer brushes: the Smudge Brush and Angled Liner Brush. Both of these brushes make applying winged liner a whole lot easier, and I’m thrilled to have them in my collection!
I use the Angled Liner brush for creating a line and a wing. I use it in the ‘v’ postion rather than the ‘n’ position, and I find it gets really close to the lash line and creates a thin line. I like that the brush is not so thin that it becomes hard to keep the wobble out of your line . The angle also makes it super easy to create a wing.
I use the smudge brush for tightlining, even though it’s probably not meant for this purpose. I just dip it into the eyeliner, press it to the underside of my lash line and I’m done. I find with traditional tightlining brushes they can be quite uncomfortable to use (scratchy or prone to make you blink) but with this brush, the bristles are so soft that it doesn’t irritate the eye at all.
To demonstrate how I create a winged liner, and how I’ve been wearing my makeup lately, I’ve put together a tutorial below.
I’ve already applied a very thin layer of Ellis Faas Skin Veil and Ellis Faas Concealer in this photo (get both, they’re brilliant). On my cheeks is Edward Bess Compact Rouge in Love Affair and Edward Bess Highlighter in Sunlight (get these too).
First, I apply Too Faced Shadow Insurance to my lid. Make sure that you apply it under the area which will have the ‘wing’ on it too, to prevent it creasing.
Curl lashes. The Tweezerman lash curler is also courtesy of Suzanne. It does a good job!
Apply your shadow. Here I’m using MAC Woodwinked all over the lid, and MAC Bronze over the outer half of the lid and in the crease. I always apply my shadows with my fingers, then blend out with a MAC 224 blending brush, as seen below:
With the larger of my Essence of Beauty Crease Brushes, I sweep both colours under the lower lash line.
Take the Models Prefer Angled Liner Brush and dip it into your gel liner. I’m using MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack here.
Smoosh the gel liner onto the back of your hand and use it as a palette. Make sure your brush is evenly coated with the gel liner.
Holding the Angled Liner Brush in the ‘v’ position and line from the middle to the outer top lash line.
With what is left on the brush, line from the inner to the outer corner of the top lash line. Try to create a thicker line towards the outside if you can.
Even though the brush gets very close to the lash line, the underside of my top lashline is clearly visible in the photograph above. This is why tightlining is important – to cover this gap.
To create a flick, tilt your head back and look down your nose at yourself in the mirror. Imagine your lower lash line continued upward: this is where your flick should go.
Tap it off on the back of your hand again and make sure the brush is evenly coated.
Apply the brush to the underside of your top lash line and wiggle it around. Do this until there is no flesh showing.
Take your angled brush again and perfect the line at the top lash line. Make sure it is even and nice and dark. If you go over your flick, wait for it to dry before you fully open your eyes.
Check your work.
Take your heated eyelash curler and curl your lashes, concentrating on the root of the lashes. These heated curlers won’t work unless there is some mascara on the lashes.
The fact that you’ve already curled your lashes with a non heated curler means that you will not disrupt your liner at all and the mascara means that the curler will work immediately.
To finish the rest of the face, apply bronzer. I’m using Korres Monoi Bronzer in 01. I apply it with a MAC 134 paddle brush. Just apply it below the cheekbones in a downward sweeping motion:
Then on the forehead and temple:
You can see that the bronzer gives me colour, but also creates some contouring without any harshness. It gives my face shape, and importantly, cheekbones!
I love red lipstick with this look. Here I’m applying the (discontinued) Chanel Rouge Allure Laque in Dragon (*sniff*).
If I could do my hair, I’d probably do something like this.
I love a sheer base with this look, as it keeps the whole thing from looking too ‘done’.
Well, back to the books!