Skin Care Update

Hi Everyone!

Life has been extrememly hectic since I finished my PhD, but I find myself now with a small window of time with which to check in here, say hello, and update you all on my skincare routine.

I don’t have any photos to show you except the selfie below because my camera is broken. I’m loath to compromise the high-quality photographs I’ve been using up until now, but some idea is better than no idea, right?

So, here is my current routine:


‘Easy rinse’ oil cleansing method, tutorial here

Vitamin C Serum (10% MAP + AHYP) tutorial here, updated version with AHYP here.

Shea butter as moisturiser (great for my dry skin, currently buying from here)

Rose Sunscreen, tutorial here (thinking of adding some ALA to this next time around)



‘Easy rinse’ oil cleansing method + tanaka massage

Kinetin serum (tutorial here)

Chrysalis serum <<—– contains retinol, so dropped the Retin A for now (tutorial here)

Shea butter


Hair: DIY hair tonic here (without the goji extract – didn’t do anything for me. I have started adding 0.25% – 0.5% biotin though, and I LOVE it. Stops hair shedding in a serious way)

Ingredients: I still buy all my ingredients from Skin Essentials Actives because they are the best!

Age: 38 (with a LONG history of sun damage)

Results: Nasolabial folds aren’t too bad, hyperpigmentation is kept at bay, jowls are there but not too bad, skin has a nice glow to it. Wrinkles around the eyes are not really a problem any more.

This photo was taken a few days ago in my car (obvs) and I’m wearing sunscreen as a base along with a little concealer under the eyes and around the nose + eye makeup. You can see the glow that the Chysalis serum gives to my skin.

So what now?

Well, I want to work some dermarolling in to my regime, hopefully over the next week or so (link here). I also want to purchase an Ultrasonic for use once a week, and perhaps some lactic acid peels.

You can go back to 2011 and trace my skin repair journey here, here, here, here, and here.

If you don’t have the time for DIY, you can purchase ready-made products from Skin Essentials Actives or MyFawnie. Both are excellent.

Want to join the conversation? Come over to SkinCareBoards, visit the SEA blog, or hop over to Barefaced Truth.

Good luck on your journey!


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9 Responses to Skin Care Update

  1. Natalie says:

    Oh I love when you’re back x

  2. Dempeaux says:

    I’m amazed anyone still reads this, Nat. Thought I’d update to get some more skincare knowledge out there. Thanks for the comment 🙂

  3. Fia says:

    Which actives would you identify as being most effective for reducing wrinkles around the eyes over the long term (aside from rest, diet, and lifestyle changes)? I often return to your tutorials for inspiration and greatly appreciate the follow up and revisions. Thank you for making this information available. Best, Sofia

  4. Dempeaux says:

    Hi there!The beginning of any good skincare regime is Vitamin A (Retin A/ retinol etc), Vitamin C, and a zinc oxide sunscreen at a decent percentage (18% or higher, I think). Once you have that going on, I think the most effective wrinkle-buster has been the Chrysalis Serum, and I would attribute its effectiveness to the chrysin and K1. They are *excellent* at busting dark circles (I never really had a problem with dark circles, but since I’ve been using this serum I look like I’m permanently wearing beautifully-applied concealer) but I’ve noticed these actives are fantastic for my crows feet and the wrinkles directly under my eyes, too. I’ve also noticed some lifting in the eyelid/ eyebrow area, which is a nice bonus. I’ve also started dermarolling, and whilst it’s too early to talk about long-term results, I can see that it’s already made a difference to my crows feet.

    Happy formulating! 🙂

  5. Pingback: How to Fix Hooded Eyelids for Free | Dempeaux

  6. caroline says:

    Hi there, I found your blog when searching for a recipe on a daily moisturizer with zinc oxide. I mainly just wanted to say that i love your blog and especially your original diy 20% zinc oxide recipe! It is the best I have found so far for daily use, and your blog in general is very informative and I love all the pictures!

    I did have a couple questions about your serums. Do you use them daily, and have you used them daily for years? Or do you go on and off every few months? I’m afraid to use retinol or alpha hydroxy’s because I have researched them so much and read so many conflicting things about them. (I was a chemistry major so I’m kinda crazy about what touches my skin.) I have heard that long-term use of retinols and aha’s will thin the skin, even with appropriate sun-block use. Have you noticed this with your skin at all? I also remember reading that any vitaminA derivatives such as retinols or retinyls should only be applied at night because they have some kind of reaction with sunlight which causes damage in the skin. So I’m not sure about using the serums in the morning because they might not have enough time to break down befor being exposed to sunlight. What is your opinion on this and how often do you use retinol?

    I’m 31 and have a ton of age spots and freckles from the sun (I literally didn’t wear sunblock until this year because I’m an idiot) but not a lot of wrinkles yet, but I have noticed I’ve lost my ‘baby fat’ from around my eyes and nose so I know the wrinkles are coming… What is your advice on what I should do now as a preventative?

    I was also curious if you have a recipe for zinc lip balm? I have been using Cotz lip balm but it dries out my lips.

    Sorry for all the questions! haha. Love the blog. Thanks again.

  7. Dempeaux says:

    Hi there! Thankyou so much for your positive feedback!

    In answer to your questions:

    – Yes, I use my serums daily. There are times where I’m not as rigorous with my routine because my work life is incredibly busy, but at the moment I am very rigorous. I have been formulating for years and still find it hugely effective for my wrinkly, lax, and sundamaged skin
    – Regarding retinoids and AHAs: if in doubt, read the studies:

    Retinoids thin the epidermis, but thicken the dermis. This is what gives them their winkle repairing qualities. However, it is also the reason that it makes your skin more sensitive to the sun. Always use retinoids at night and use an excellent zinc oxide sunscreen during the day. Serums to use during the day do not contain any retinoids. Safer to go with Vitamin C, sunscreen, and other antioxidants to mop up any free radicals generated by sunlight exposure.

    Same goes for AHAs:

    Always use at night and be rigorous with your sun protection.

    – I didn’t start wearing sunblock until I was 31 either, and my skin was very like yours when I started out. I feel your pain!
    – Prevention: Vitamin C, Vitamin A, and sunscreen are staples in any good skincare regime. For the ‘baby fat’ issue, I think you would get good results from the range of serums that you see on my blog. You are still very young! No need to do anything too drastic at this stage.
    – Zinc can be drying. I don’t have a zinc lip balm – I just use my sunscreen 🙂

    Thankyou! 🙂

  8. Fia says:

    I make a few of my own serums in NYC and currently use raspberry seed oil for its natural sunscreen protection. I mix with an oil free zinc sunscreen which gives it a really light feel before biking across the Manhattan bridge to class. No burns so far! 🙂

  9. Dempeaux says:

    Well done on making your own serums! I would suggest that the zinc sunscreen is doing most of the heavy lifting though . The single study that the raspberry seed oil spf data was based on has not been further explored since 2000 and merely states that it has the “potential” to act as an spf. I’m sure it’s great as an antioxidant under sunscreen though – good for mopping up any free radicals 🙂

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